Graphic courtesy of Mission CantinaEntrees average eight dollars and promise generous servings. If you’re one of the sad few who haven’t had the pleasure of eating authentic Mexican food, this place will change everything you thought you knew about tacos, burritos, enchiladas and quesadillas. The homemade tortilla chips and five types of fresh salsas are to die for. The menu also offers creative salads, vegetarian and pescatarian options. The restaurant opened in late July of last year and is already in the running for the Valley Advocate’s “Best of the Valley.”
Growing up in Seattle, where there is a large Mexican population, I had access to fantastic Mexican food. Although New England has lots to offer in the way of ethnic cuisine, you’re hard-pressed to find good Mexican
restaurants.
The staff are attentive, helpful and friendly to the extent that when I expressed interest in how the pomegranate margarita was made, they let me hop behind the bar and taught me how to make one myself, explaining how each ingredient contributed to the drink. While I sipped my first-ever margarita, the owner Sam Kocham shared his views on Mexican dining and provided a bit of history. The name of the restaurant, Mission Cantina, is actually taken from the Mission district of San Francisco. Food world folklore classifies the burrito as part of Mexican cuisine, but it’s not. In the Mission district of San Francisco, the population of Mexican immigrant farm hands had to wake up early for work. They would fry up a few eggs, use beans from last night’s dinner, add some rice and veggies and wrap it all up in a easy tortilla for a quick, filling, healthy and one-handed meal. The burrito rose to fame in the ’60s when a movement in Haite Ashbury took off in search of a healthy, homemade alternative to fast food. They wanted something simple but still healthy and easy to eat. The burrito, a one-stop shop for protein, fiber, vegetables and flavor answered their prayers. “You don’t really find burritos in Mexico,” said Kocham.
Kocham spent 18 years working in fine dining establishments in Boston. After work, the chefs went out in search of authentic ethnic food of all varieties. They enjoyed exploring flavors, and often incorporated the influences into the dishes they created in the kitchen. “We’d get done making five-star food all night, and we really just wanted delicious, healthy ethnic food. That was what we liked: interesting, new flavors.”
As for his own restaurant, Kocham is dedicated to using fresh, quality ingredients and creating a satisfying experience for customers in every aspect. “This kind of food has to be affordable and accessible to a wide range of people. Mexican food is not supposed to be expensive. I’m not a big fan of this new craze where chefs from high-end restaurants try to do lobster tacos and foie gras enchiladas.” Kocham visits Mexico often; he even just returned two weeks ago from his latest trip to stay in touch with the culture, the flavors and the experience of authentic cuisine and dining.
Why don’t all restaurants do the same? “It’s incredibly time-consuming,” said Kocham. “But I can take my fine dining background and apply it to things like braising pork for carnitas, so there’s already an understanding on how to prepare pork shoulder. I don’t cut corners.” Kocham runs Mission Cantina with integrity and takes his business seriously. “Here, there’s no difference in how we approach a $8.95 tacos plate than a $50 filet mignon. We want to provide a relaxed atmosphere and quality product so people can come in and won’t walk away hungry, displeased or feeling cheated.” They also serve local food and beer whenever possible and incorporate seasonal flavors.
For the 21+ crowd, they have an extensive drink menu of margaritas, martinis and imported and local beer. They approach their cocktails with the same devotion to quality and creativity as the rest of their menu. They use only fresh-squeezed juice, fresh agave nectar and tequilas selected for excellent taste that are still reasonably priced. Their bartender crafted the house margarita recipe from scratch and does the same with homemade sour mix. “No powders, no mixes. We squeeze five cases of limes every week with a little hand juicer,” said Kocham. “It’s like a flu shot, there’s so much fresh vitamin C…that, and a lot of liquor,” said Dave the bartender. “No scurvy here, sailor.”
Beautiful black and white photographs of Puerto Vallarta taken by a family friend cover the walls alongside tapestries, Mexican paper decorations, the occasional sombrero and a number of interesting objects Kocham brought home with him from trips to Mexico. Soft lighting from cut-out tin light fixtures mingles with red twinkle lights strung around the cozy space. The half circle bar is always tended by a friendly face, ready to chat, make great recommendations and disclose all sorts of interesting facts about cactus water. Located right across the street from the Hess station on the bus line from Mount Holyoke to Amherst, stop in some time for delicious carnitas tacos for dinner, or perhaps wind up a rough week with a tasty fresh-squeezed pomegranate margarita.
Mission Cantina
485 West St.
South Amherst, MA 01002
Open 7 days a week 4 p.m. to 1 a.m.
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